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The Violent Reality Of Life On The Streets For British Sex Workers

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The following is an extract from Revolting Prostitutes: The Fight for Sex Workers' Rights by Juno Mac and Molly Smith

In the weeks leading up to Christmas 2006, sex workers in the small British town of Ipswich feared for their lives. The bodies of two sex working women had been found in the previous week, and the killer was still at large. Out in the quiet streets, a local news film crew approached a young woman named Paula Clennell, one of the few who remained waiting for clients in the usual spot. When asked why she was risking her life out on the streets when a murderer was on the loose, she explained, "I have to work. I need the money."

Paula, a mother of three in her twenties, had been selling sex for some time. After her children were taken away from her, she became depressed and began using heroin. By the winter of 2006, her dependency on drugs had reached a stage where she needed an income of around five hundred pounds a day to support herself. For Paula, as for so many people in similar situations, selling sex was the only viable way to obtain this kind of money. A friend encouraged her to try indoor escorting in the hope it would be safer – as well as legal under British law – but in her situation, that level of organisation and financial overhead was unrealistic. Street work, though criminalised, meant she could sell sex whenever she wanted and return home with instant cash. She had no partner and no manager to split her money with.

A few days after her appearance on the news, Paula vanished. By Christmas, her body had been found, along with those of four other women.

A few days after her appearance on the news, Paula vanished. By Christmas, her body had been found, along with those of four other women. Steve Wright, a local man, was later found guilty of all five murders.

Nine years later, Daria Pionko’s smiling face jumped out of news reports. Daria was just twenty-one and had moved from Poland to Britain ten months before. Daria’s mother, Lydia, described her as a kind-hearted and joyful girl who was always eager to help others. A few days before Christmas 2015, a young man named Lewis Pierre kicked Daria to death in Holbeck, Leeds, in order to steal eighty pounds from her. Daria’s body was discovered by her housemate and friend Karolina, who was also a street-based sex worker.

Daria had been working in the Holbeck 'managed area'. This is a place where street-based sex workers and clients can meet without fear of arrest, an arrangement the only one of its kind in Britain. (In most of Britain, sex workers who wait for clients in public places may be charged with 'soliciting' or 'loitering with intent to commit prostitution'. Their clients may also be charged with 'kerb crawling'.)

Daria had left the managed area with Pierre, as was compulsory: although sex workers can meet clients without fear of arrest in the Holbeck zone, sex there is not permitted – they are forced to leave the managed area and find a dark alley or patch of woodland where they can conduct business in secrecy. In doing so, sex workers risk arrest. They also, of course, are at risk of attack in these hidden spaces. When Lewis Pierre reappeared in the lens of the same CCTV camera that caught him walking away from the managed area with Daria, he had blood on his steel-capped shoes.

In responding to such horrific stories, it is easy to make them purely about male brutality and the disposability of prostitutes. These themes have resonance for us, too, as they surely do for any sex worker who has stepped into a car or a hotel room with a stranger. The emphasis on male violence as the conceptual framework through which to understand these murders allows non-prostitute women – who may themselves be survivors of male violence – to empathetically and discursively 'enter into' the experience of the prostitute.

While this empathy is welcome, there is a danger that this sands away the specifics of Paula and Daria’s lives and the lives and experiences of prostitutes as a whole, which then become draped around the figure of the 'everywoman'. As Beth Richie argues, the 'everywoman' victim/survivor concept was created in the 1970s as a strategic rhetorical move on the part of the nascent feminist movement to demand attention for the epidemic of male violence. But this has transmuted over time into something closer to a focus on the 'default woman' – and the 'default woman' is certainly not a drug user or a sex worker. Nor is she a survivor of state violence. Daria and Paula’s lives were shaped by specific realities, including the ever-present threat of criminalisation. These young women were acting rationally in a system designed to harm them at every turn.

Instead of asking questions about how the state makes women like Daria and Paula unsafe, media coverage tends to channel the worldview of their aggrieved neighbours. The fact that selling sex is technically not a crime in Britain does little to render sex workers as relatable – or grievable – in the eyes of police, residents or journalists. Sympathetic perceptions of sex workers are readily tossed aside for something more callous. Mike Veale, chief of the Wiltshire police, indicated that when a prostitute reports a crime, he takes her less seriously than other victims: "If you have a six-year-old girl who has trauma in her vagina or anus you would expect me to believe her. If you have a drunken prostitute, making allegations regarding a bad debt, you have to make more of a judgement."

Judgements of this type are not in short supply. A few years after the Ipswich killings, one journalist wrote, "The girls killed in Ipswich were not working in the stupidly PC term 'sex industry'; they were junkies ... Can we afford rehab for the girls in Ipswich – and everywhere else? Speaking as a taxpayer, I’d say: erm, well, um. Good question. " Indeed, it seems the Ipswich killings, and the questions they raise, drew a particularly vicious strain of rhetorical cruelty into the public arena, suggesting that hatred of sex workers and collective guilt about social neglect are closely bound together. Another journalist called the five Ipswich women "disgusting, drug-addled street whores" and bridled at what he considered excessive mourning, writing, "We do not share in the responsibility for either their grubby little existences or their murders. Society isn’t to blame ... death by strangulation is an occupational hazard."

Who, then – or what – is to blame? Why didn’t Paula and her friends have access to a flat that they could have taken turns using with clients instead of being driven away, alone, in a car? Why was she paying five hundred pounds a day for opiates that the National Health Service could have provided in a safe version for a fraction of the cost? Why was she stuck trying to manage her trauma through street heroin instead of through more sustainable support services? Instead of being supported to be the loving parent she desperately wanted to be, Paula was left depressed and in profound poverty. For Daria, too, these questions bubble up painfully. An evaluation of the Holbeck managed area had already noted, months before Daria’s murder, that the "most notable time of risk for sex workers is away from the Managed Area". Women like Daria and Paula need so little – some basic safety and resources — that it is easy to imagine society meeting those needs. Yet, at the same time, they needed so much – in that to imagine a society that takes their safety seriously is to imagine a society profoundly transformed.

Revolting Prostitutes: The Fight for Sex Workers' Rights by Juno Mac and Molly Smith, £11.34, published by Verso Books.

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Please, For Goop's Sake, Do Not Put Essential Oils In Your Vagina

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If you regularly browse the wellness pages of the internet, it's likely you'll have come across more than a few mentions of essential oils.

Essential oils are lovely. They are the very essence of a plant, its purest scent; they diffuse beautifully in oil burners, go great in baths, and we're at the beginning of some interesting research into whether essential oils can be used to help treat different medical issues.

Please note the 'at the beginning of" part of that sentence. NICE (National Institute for Health and Care Excellence) classifies aromatherapy (using oils to improve physical and mental wellbeing) as a complementary medicine, which means that it shouldn't be used as an alternative to traditional medicine, just as a possible addition.

One thing we do know about using essential oils is that you should definitely not be putting them up or in your vagina. This, my friends, is a very bad idea indeed.

To some of you, this may sound like a given: the vagina = not a part of your body to play silly buggers with. In fact, though, there are a huge number of blogposts advocating the use of various oil concoctions for vaginal odour, for yeast infections (thrush), bacterial vaginosis, vaginal dryness... and that's just on the first page of Google. You can even, if you really hate having money, buy this ready-made mixture of oils named Holy Yoni (for topical use only) for $48 (£37). For the non-Goopers out there, "yoni" is Sanskrit for "womb" but has come to mean vagina, vulva or uterus.

"I don't recommend [using] any oils at all!" says Shazia Malik, a consultant obstetrician and gynaecologist practising in London. She believes the essential oil craze is a side-effect of the digital evolution. "There is an increasing trend to Google and try to self-manage problems, and to look for so-called 'natural' remedies," she tells me. "Unfortunately, there is a lot of unregulated information which can be misleading and even harmful."

The vagina is not a part of your body to play silly buggers with

Sadly, thanks to poor education and other cultural factors, many women feel under pressure to have a 'perfect' vagina. To be clear, such a thing doesn't exist; vaginas are all fine, just as they are. Refinery29 recently reported on the dangers of unregulated vaginal 'rejuvenation ' procedures, a demand for which has stemmed from an unrealistic idea of what form, shape and colour the female genitals 'should' take. According to Malik, myths like these may be behind the current interest in vaginal oils. "There has been a cultural shift in what is perceived as normal or beautiful. [This] has meant that what really is normal may sometimes be perceived as otherwise, for example feeling that a normal and natural odour isn't or needs to be masked."

Tea tree oil seems to be a particularly popular choice of vaginal oil across the blogosphere, especially for treating thrush and odours. Malik tells us it's because it's known as an antiseptic (an unnecessary addition as a vagina should have millions of healthy bacteria already in place). Worryingly though, tea tree oil appears to be the reported catalyst for a number of hospital trips, including claims of a woman left with permanent scarring after soaking a tampon in the stuff. It's important to remember that any essential oil should be heavily diluted before it comes into contact with the body anyway but putting it inside yourself can be very dangerous indeed. Malik lists pain, scarring, the killing off of healthy bacteria, burning of the skin and creating a predisposition to infection as just some of the potential dangers.

So it's a no on the essential oils. Even if you think you need it. "The vagina is a self-cleaning and moisturising organ and does not need extra oils, moisturisers or deodorants," states Malik firmly. "The only time moisturisers may be needed is in some sexual disorders, while breastfeeding, when the vagina can be less lubricated, and after the menopause."

"Wear cotton underwear, change daily – more often if exercising or heavy discharge – and don't wear underwear at night," Malik continues. "Do not use vaginal hygiene products and don't douche. Wash with warm water and/or unscented products for the vulva."

Basically, no matter how high maintenance you are, your vagina's the opposite. Leave it alone. It'll thank you.

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Here's Everything We Want From Fashion's Coolest Sustainable Store

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Sustainable luxury fashion brand Maiyet has made its name by partnering with global artisans and advocating slow, fair and eco fashion. Having set a precedent for responsible consumption, it's now opening a pop-up concept store – The Maiyet Collective – playing host to the brands producing the most exciting sustainable pieces (which we actually want to wear).

Located at 40 Conduit Street in London, the store will feature new brands on a rotational basis and include everything from fashion and jewellery to beauty and homeware. Open three days each month, always running from Thursday to Sunday, there will also be a programme of panel talks, workshops, book signings, performance art and film screenings.

Ahead, we choose five of our favourite ethically minded eco-conscious brands, from incarcerated knitwear makers to those tackling denim's water waste. Click through to shop The Maiyet Collective's best brands.

The Maiyet Collective is open 1st-3rd November, and 29th November-1st December. Visit themaiyetcollective.com to request an invitation to The Maiyet Collective concept store and receive details of upcoming events.

Carcel

"We go where the finest local materials meet the highest rate of poverty-related crime," Carcel's mission statement reads, "in order to provide better jobs, new skills, and opportunities for women in prison." The knitwear brand, founded by Danish designers Veronica D’Souza and Louis van Hauen in 2016, works closely with incarcerated women in Peru, buying the biodegradable materials – all sustainably and ethically sourced – and ensuring that all the women are paid living wages.

With quintessentially Danish design and the knowledge that you're contributing to a brand that provides women with skills they'd otherwise lose in prison, we're investing in Carcel.

Carcel LS Uni-Tee, £213, available at Carcel

Birdsong

We've long been fans of Birdsong, the London-based brand that connects women, from worker to wearer. They work under a 'no sweatshop, no Photoshop' principle, and collaborate with women's groups and charities to produce their fun and contemporary designs.

From Knit & Knatter, the grandmas who knit in Enfield, to Mohila, low-income migrant mothers based in Tower Hamlets, Birdsong ensures their makers are paid fairly and regularly. The pieces are contemporary and cool, and you'll sleep sound knowing your wardrobe was made with love.

Birdsong Clapton Taupe Organic Denim Worker Jacket, £130, available at Birdsong

M.i.h Jeans

M.i.h Jeans is an industry favourite, and not just because of its fantastic cuts, solid denim, and experimental fabrications. The brand has long cared about the fashion industry's impact on the Earth, and ensured transparency for its customers way before it was cool.

Using certified organic cotton, dyeing and finishing denim with low-impact treatments, and harnessing innovative laser technology and water-reducing washes to make their pieces as waste-free as possible, it's time to give up your £30 jeans for a pair that will last years – and not cost the Earth.

M.i.h Jeans Korine Dungarees, £295, available at M.i.h Jeans

Laura Ironside

Laura is an exciting emerging designer – the brand itself has only just launched – looking to refocus our perspective on fast fashion and the speed at which we expect collections to drop. Instead, she champions slowing down the cycle and encouraging conscious consumption.

Her first collection uses traditional pattern cutting and draping, is inspired by 1930s silhouettes, and uses ethically sourced materials – all great reasons to join our ever-growing sustainable wish list.

Laura Ironside Mustard Silk Dress, available at The Maiyet Collective

Bite Studios

Bite (an acronym for 'By Independent Thinkers for Environmental Progress') Studios was founded back in 2016 in response to the dire need for sustainable design with uncompromised aesthetics. Based in London, this is for those wanting to fill the Phoebe Philo void, all contemporary suiting and crisp white shirts.

Everyone working within Bite's production process gets a living wage, and the brand sources 100% ecological certified materials that won't harm the world's ecosystem, plus it operates on a local scale, meaning reduced need for transport and shipments.

Bite Studios Organic Cropped Curved Trouser, £260, available at Young British Designers

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Vitamin K: The Under-The-Radar Ingredient That Dry Skin Needs

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When it comes to vitamins in skincare, there are two in particular that skin experts will always sing the praises of: vitamin A – this is what retinol is derived from and it has the ability to increase cell turnover, boost collagen and minimise fine lines, acne and hyperpigmentation – and vitamin C – a skin-brightening antioxidant that protects against environmental aggressors such as pollution and infrared light.

A good, solid skincare regime should consist of both of these elements (vitamin C in the morning and vitamin A in the evening, alongside a slathering of sun protection in the AM, of course) but if our Skin Deep series has taught us anything here at R29, it's that skin is complex, and often calls for something more. Enter: vitamin K. Not as well known as A or C, it's a bit of an unsung ingredient in the skincare sphere, but if you suffer with parched patches and skin inflammation, it might just be worth incorporating into your routine. So what exactly is it?

"Vitamin K is essentially a group of compounds found in many things including food, such as leafy greens, liver and eggs," explains facialist Michaella Bolder. "Following research, this particular ingredient was found to be just as important as A, C and E, mainly because of its anti-inflammatory properties," something Kirsti Shuba, cofounder of skincare brand Katherine Daniels, expands on.

"Vitamin K is for skin recovery," says Kirsti. "In topical application, it is often used for bruising, swelling and is sometimes applied to cuts and grazes to aid the healing process – surgeons often prescribe a vitamin K cream to aid healing after surgery, for example." Michaella seconds vitamin K's wound healing properties but explains that it has the potential to go a little further. "Topical application is even beneficial for conditions such as eczema and psoriasis," she says, as recent research suggests it plays a significant role in inhibiting the inflammation typical of these skin conditions, such as redness and swelling. "In turn, vitamin K strengthens the skin's natural barrier function, enabling it to grow stronger and to retain hydration for longer," says Kirsti, which makes it a great one to incorporate into your skincare routine come the winter months, when skin can get much drier.

Of course, it's best to visit a dermatologist or GP for help with symptoms of eczema and psoriasis. In fact, Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible: Your No-Nonsense Guide To Great Skin advises not to rush out and buy products which contain vitamin K as a sole agent, as other, more researched ingredients show clinical benefit, too. But if you're looking to combat the odd patch of dry skin, you can find vitamin K in many skincare products, such as Summer Fridays' Overtime Mask, £39, and Kat Burki's PH+ Enzyme Essence, £92, which also boasts vitamin C for protection against pollution and other environmental issues.

Research also suggests that vitamin K can minimise broken capillaries under the skin, something Michaella and Kirsti both acknowledge, which could be why you're likely to find the ingredient inside many eye creams. R29 rates Goldfaden MD's Bright Eyes, £48, and Clark's Botanicals Anti-Puff Eye Cream, £70, especially for hydrating taut skin and minimising fine lines, but whether vitamin K or any other ingredient in eye cream is able to penetrate the skin deep enough to target dark circles is still up for debate, according to dermatologists.

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7 Of The Best Vegan Wines

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Living an ethical, plant-based, vegan life – though rewarding – can be tricky. And never trickier than at 5pm on a Friday when reaching for a well-earned glass of wine. Because it’s a sad and sorry fact that not all wines are vegan. We know.

But why is this? Surely grapes + sugar = vegan-friendly? Well, apparently it’s just not as simple as that. We asked Isabelle Legeron, a Master of Wine and founder of RAW WINE to explain…

"Some winemakers use what are called 'processing aids’ to ‘fine’ their wines in order to remove residual cloudiness. The aids can be made from clay or pea protein but can also be derived from egg, milk and even fish. This is why some wines are not suitable for vegetarians or vegans."

Okay, so how can we tell if a wine is vegan-friendly?

"Unfortunately you can’t always tell from the label if a wine is vegan-friendly. I would say most artisanally made, low-intervention wines are suitable, but the best way to be sure is to buy wine from an independent wine store with knowledgeable staff. At RAW WINE we require full disclosure from producers and we share this information with visitors."

We’d also add that a spot of online shopping can make your vegan wine hunting a tad easier too, with outlets like Ocado and Waitrose enabling you to search specifically for vegan wines. In the meantime, we’ve rounded up some of our favourite vegan-friendly wines so you can make a toast to wine time, without the worry.

This M&S prosecco is a premium example of the lively, crisp Italian sparkling wine we all know and refuse to stop loving. With the usual characteristics of lemon, pear and apple flavours, there’s also a nice floral hint to this number, so I think we can all agree it’s pretty much #plantbased, no?

This wine is from the northeast Veneto region’s beautiful Valdobbiadene hills, as prosecco should be. They say it’s ideal as an aperitif but to be honest, we like drinking this stuff all night long. Serve perfectly chilled with canapés, seafood and creamy cheese (although vegans will opt out of the latter two). Try it with pastry-based canapés instead (hello homemade vol-au-vents – the green Jus Roll is vegan, don’t you know) or mini bruschetta.

Marks & Spencer Prosecco (Non-Vintage), 11%, £10, available at Marks & Spencer

Waitrose has a new range of accessible own-label wines from classic regions, which they’re calling Blueprint Wines (spot the pretty blue and white labels), and this is the malbec. It’s from Mendoza in Argentina – the world’s most famous malbec region – and is absolutely delicious. We loved the sheer juiciness of it, with masses of rich red berry flavours and maybe a bit of plum. As with most malbecs, this wine’s perfect pairing is a big grilled steak, but vegans and veggies should try it with any barbecued or chargrilled food.

Waitrose Blueprint Malbec 2017 Mendoza, 12.5%, £7.99, available at Waitrose

We’re actually loath to tell you about this wine in case you buy it all, but it’s our job to so, fine; we will. An organic viognier from a fully organic vineyard near the Murray River in south Australia, the makers are dedicated to sustainability and making their wines in harmony with the environment and community. The care and attention shows: This viognier is one of the most remarkable we’ve tasted, genuinely bursting with honeyed sunshine and with floral nectar flavours galore. It’s a fair old percentage at 14.5% so go steady as we loved this so much it hurt (our heads!). Drink now while it’s young. Great with Asian flavours.

Yalumba Organic Viognier 2016, 14.5%, £11.99, available at Wine Rack

This lovely red won gold in the International Wine Challenge 2016 so you know it means business. These shiraz grapes are grown on ancient, gnarly vines that need little intervention as they are so well established – the soil is some of the oldest on the planet – and are then hand-crushed, fermented and finished in old French oak barrels. This is a serious wine, with big spicy pepper notes, all the brambles and the characteristic shiraz dark chocolate finish. Drink in front of a roaring fire, or with something hearty like a mushroom risotto.

Dandelion Vineyards Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz, Australia 2014, 14.5%, £10.95, available at Wine Trust

Anyone who’s holidayed in Portugal will be familiar with their jazzy vinho verde aka ‘green wine’ – light, zesty little summer numbers that are so youthful they almost fizz in the mouth, despite being strictly ‘still’ wines. Vinho verde doesn’t have to be green though, and this exceptionally dry, aromatic Portuguese pink is from the same protected DOC region and made in the same style, so there are herbal, mineral and seaside notes galore, as you’d hope. This light rosé is made for seafood (sorry vegans) and salad, and we can’t think of a better pairing than a perfectly crisp green salad with a lemony dressing.

LIV Vinho Verde Rosé, Portugal, 2015, 12.5%, £10, available at Borough Wines

In case you hadn’t noticed, 2017 was the year that people sat up and took notice of crémant, and we are 100% here for that. Crémant refers to a group of French sparkling wines that are made in the same traditional method as champagne – meaning far more bubbles. Many crémant wines use the same grapes as champagne too, like this Aldi Exquisite Crémant, which uses chardonnay grapes. The taste is scarily close to champagne, with plenty of that signature brioche flavour and in this case, some nice green apples and citrus. We can’t emphasise how much of a bargain this wine is, particularly next to most proseccos of a similar price; crack it out for a special occasion.

Aldi Exquisite Crémant du Jura, 2015, 12%, £7.99, available at Aldi

The vegan wine message is spreading far and wide, and the fact you can even pick up a vegan-friendly vino from your local corner shop is a sign that things are really coming on. Most likely, you’ll find this super approachable rioja from the nice i heart wines people, and on drinking you’ll discover it to be a smoothly balanced wine with loads of red berries and a nice vanilla note (that’ll be the oak ageing). It’s from one of the most prestigious rioja wineries, so do it justice by pairing with authentic Spanish tapas – anything spicy and fried works well. Pass the patatas bravas.

i heart Berceo Rioja, NV, 13.5%, RRP £8, available at McColl’s, Nisa and Bargain Booze

RAW WINE's fair is held on 11th-12th March 2018 in London

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I Used Only Vegan Beauty Products For A Week – This Is What I Thought

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Happy World Vegan Day. It’s 2018 and veganism has really taken off. From restaurant menus to the clothes on our backs, more and more industries are making an effort to meet consumer demands and support animal welfare by going cruelty-free – and the beauty world is no exception. According to the NPD Group, in the past year alone there has been a 38% increase in the sale of vegan beauty products in the UK, as a growing number of us cast aside the notion that vegan products are restrictive or second-rate.

Smaller brands like Axiology and Arbonne led the way in vegan beauty, swapping animal-derived ingredients for the plant-based variety. Nowadays, myriad big-name brands like Hourglass and Charlotte Tilbury are getting on board, ditching animal byproducts, such as lanolin and beeswax (which typically make up beauty must-haves like foundation and mascara) for vegan alternatives. Admittedly, I was sceptical. Would vegan offerings feel watered down? Would they work as well? And would the packaging be as #shelfie-worthy as my other buys? But that’s exactly why I accepted the challenge of swapping all my usual products, from skincare to makeup, for vegan versions for a whole week. Here’s how I got on...

Skincare

I usually buy Elemental Herbology’s Vital Cleanse Facial Cleanser, on repeat because of how bright my skin looks after using it every day, but it contains manuka honey – first fail! A quick search for 'vegan skincare' turned up Peter Thomas Roth’s Water Drench Cloud Cream Cleanser; I bought it straightaway because of the rave reviews. It left my skin feeling refreshed and hydrated, thanks to the hyaluronic acid which quenches thirsty cells and marshmallow root extract – an ingredient which is quickly gaining popularity in vegan skincare for its skin-softening properties. It also eradicated every single scrap of makeup. So far, so good.

I’m a toner advocate because I’m convinced a quick once-over keeps my skin clear and primes it for any skincare I apply on top. I discovered a really cool brand called Kypwell, whose products are all cruelty-free, void of parabens and mineral oils, and of course, vegan. Their Signature Flower Mist Toner, swaps glycerin (sometimes made from animal fats and oils and a staple in many face mists because it attracts moisture) for an army of herbs as well as rose petals, chamomile and elderflower. After a couple of spritzes my face felt much cleaner. I later found out that the combined ingredients have antibacterial and anti-pollution properties, which is a total win. I think I might have to stockpile this one.

I can’t leave the house without applying moisturiser, but I know a lot of products contain things like lanolin (derived from sheep’s wool) or beeswax. I returned to my friend, Peter Thomas Roth, and his 10% Glycolic Solutions Moisturiser. Anything that aims to reduce dullness, kickstart collagen, banish breakouts and restore my uneven skin tone gets my vote. It went on smoothly and there was no irritation thanks to the addition of aloe vera. Ten percent glycolic is quite high, though, so if you have sensitive skin, be cautious. I’d also suggest following with an SPF – Glossier’s Daily Sunscreen SPF 30, is vegan.

I also picked up Tata Harper’s Restorative Eye Crème, because everyone from Caroline Hirons to beauty editors raves about it. I know it’s incredibly expensive, but I decided to treat myself because I absolutely adore the philosophy behind the brand. Tata is known to grow most of the vegan ingredients on her farm and the eye cream is made in small batches using minimal preservatives. The glass bottle is also recyclable. It felt satisfyingly refreshing on the first application. I’m still using it because it's great at smoothing puffiness and I hope to say goodbye to my dark bags soon, too.

My skin likes consistency so I kept my morning routine the same until the end of the week, when I started to add Bio-Extracts' Clean to Clear Boost – a plant-derived exfoliating treatment – to my moisturiser to combat some spots that creep up every now and then. It’s an under-the-radar vegan brand that deserves so much more recognition and at that price, this product is a pretty good deal, as you can get up to 50 'shots' out of it.

Hair

Many haircare products I’ve used in the past contain cashmere (wool from the Kashmir goat) or allantoin – uric acid from cows. Without these, I was worried that my hair would feel a bit dry or look really dull. But I’d spotted vegan Aussie haircare brand Mr. Smith all over Instagram, so I headed into Salon 64 and picked up the Hydrating Shampoo and Hydrating Conditioner; my hair is super thick and there’s a lot of it – thank you, Persian roots. The monochrome bottles looked so chic in my bathroom and dispelled the myth that vegan beauty products have questionable packaging. Impressively, the shampoo lathered up a treat. I’d never tried haircare containing neem seed and marula oil before, but they made my hair feel silky and a little easier to brush. I always go sulphate-free anyway, but this is the first time I’ve immediately felt a positive difference in my hair.

Two days later, I discovered Trevor Sorbie had launched a vegan, cruelty-free haircare range at Superdrug so I snapped up the Tame & Define shampoo and conditioner duo, which, amazingly, resulted in a hell of a lot less frizz than I’m used to. With 95% natural ingredients, no silicone, mineral oil or sodium chloride, it promised to define curls, not straighten out movement. This swayed me, because I always want to embrace my natural texture. For a brand that emerged from a hair salon, the vegan products are surprisingly pocket-friendly. Sold.

Body

I picked up Yope’s Coconut & Sea Salt Shower Gel, as it doesn’t contain animal-derived fatty acids like some body washes do. Instead, it employs natural mineral salts, coconut, proteins and vitamins. The bottle is huge for the price. It doesn’t have a pungent scent like others and it only takes a single pump to lather up. After a week of using this every morning, my skin felt so nourished and my body breakouts virtually disappeared. This has to be my favourite buy of the lot.

On the first day, I realised I couldn’t use my usual body cream (thanks, royal jelly – that one comes from bees) so I ran out to grab Vita Coco’s Coconut Oil, which I’ve used before as a body oil and loved. It’s literally cold-pressed coconut oil and nothing else. It really hydrates my skin – better than a cream, in fact – and having it in the shower means it doubles up as a shaving product. I wouldn’t use it on my face, though, as I’m prone to spots and it can clog my pores.

I wasn’t worried about finding a vegan perfume, even though I like musky scents, because this component is now typically derived from synthetic ingredients. Still, this was a chance to treat myself. Elizabeth & James’ Nirvana collection is vegan and I picked White Nirvana for the mix of sweet and smoky notes. It’s slightly more grown up than my usual Dior Hypnotic Poison, but it’s good to try something new, right?

Makeup

It’s not hard to find vegan makeup. Brands like Kat Von D, Hourglass and Chantecaille are all on board; in fact, I’ve been using some of their vegan products already. On Thursday evening I had casual drinks with my colleagues, so chose light makeup. I opted for The Body Shop’s All In One BB Cream, and was pleased to find that it covered my blemishes and lent my skin a dewy, radiant finish. I then added a touch of MUA’s Bronzed Shimmer Bronzing Powder, a vegan bargain at £4. At the start of the week, I had to put aside my usual brush collection, as many of them are made from animal hair, so I applied most of my makeup with my fingers or Chantecaille’s Cheek Brush. The synthetic bristles felt great on my skin but I can’t get over how pricey it is for a brush. I made a mental note to pop to Boots to pick up some EcoTools brushes, which are vegan and affordable. To finish, I applied Axiology's Instinct Lipstick. I loved the unique honey-caramel nude and how moisturised it made my lips feel – plus I received so many compliments! I’m currently checking out their other products, too.

On Saturday, I went out out, and I’m pleased to say that the vegan beauty industry is totally there for my need for full coverage makeup. I started with Charlotte Tilbury’s Wonderglow Primer, listed as vegan-friendly on the website. It’s more expensive than my usual Revlon Fill & Blur, but I wasn’t disappointed by how it looked on my face so it’s worth the investment. When it came to foundation, I grabbed Hourglass’ Vanish Seamless Finish Foundation Stick – it’s actually always been one of my favourite foundations because I love how weightless but long-wearing it is. It offers maximum coverage, falling midway between a matte and dewy finish. My vegan friends champion this brand, too.

I also tried RMS Beauty’s ‘Un’ Powder. It's been touted as one of the best vegan face powders around, but in all honesty, I prefer Laura Mercier’s Translucent Powder, as it’s non-cakey and non-comedogenic, so won’t block pores. To add colour, I used Chantecaille’s Cheek Gelee Hydrating Gel-Cream Blush in Lively – the only vegan blush in the range – and loved how natural a stain the creamy formula lent my cheeks. To my surprise, it lasted the whole evening. Another win.

Kat Von D is my go-to for eyeliner – she’s a huge advocate for veganism and you only have to scroll through her Instagram to realise how much it means to her. I’ve been using her Tattoo Liner (yep, the one that went viral for lasting through a car accident) for some time now and would never go back, so I was incredibly excited to try some of her other products. Scouring Debenhams, I picked up the Brow Struck Powder in Walnute. I was really impressed with how bold my brows looked after a once-over with a brush.

The verdict

I was a little worried about an entirely vegan beauty regime, especially because I had a carefully selected arsenal of products that worked well for me. However – while there are certain things I was happy to go back to using – I would now readily swap the majority of my products for vegan alternatives. In fact, some of the products I sampled over the past week have firmly replaced others in my beauty regime. And even though I splurged here and there, this challenge didn’t burn a hole in my pocket like I thought it would.

I don’t follow a vegan diet in everyday life, so I have to admit that I’d never given much thought to vegan beauty products before this week. Now I understand that people go vegan – in all aspects of life – for heaps of reasons. Many have emotional attachments to animals, lots want to prevent their exploitation, while others believe that they have a right to life and freedom – all of which I respect.

Refinery29's selection is purely editorial and independently chosen – we only feature items we love! As part of our business model we do work with affiliates; if you directly purchase something from a link on this article, we may earn a small amount of commission. Transparency is important to us at Refinery29, if you have any questions please reach out to us.

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9 Things Vegans Find Annoying

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Happy Vegan Day! In case you hadn't noticed, being vegan is very "in" right now. Of course, food choices shouldn't ever be "in" or "out". You should eat what makes you happy. But it is noted that avoiding animal products is a positive thing you can do to help with the sustainability issues our planet is facing. So, if veganism is for you, wave goodbye to eggs, say adios to steak. Set fire to mountains of brie and manchego. Do what makes you feel good.

Just because your vegan lifestyle is making you feel good though, doesn't mean it comes without its own set of issues. In this age of the vegan fad, it can get a little tiring answering things like "IS QUORN VEGAN" on a daily basis (answer: some is, some isn't), or getting yet another eye roll from Aunty Carol at Christmas dinner when you explain once more for the cheap seats in the back that no, your veganism isn't a phase.

To help everyone be more mindful of the vegans in their lives, I lured two Refinery29 vegans (Nina Joyce, PR Director and Sadhbh O'Sullivan, Social Media Editor) into a conversation using a packet of seitan and asked them what they find most annoying about being vegan. Click through to find their answers.

Dry-ass bean burgers in gastropubs

Bean burgers can be delicious. How do I know? Because I make them that way. So why kitchens continue to churn out throat-scrapingly dry, under-seasoned, dry-as-a-cracker-in-a-desert bean burgers is beyond me. There are literally thousands of recipes online for vegan food, just pick a single one to use on your menu instead of the same old bean burger you’re forcing me to eat.

The portobello mushroom

Speaking of bad burgers: portobello mushroom does NOT a burger make. It's a cop-out and you know it. Stop lying to us and, more importantly, stop lying to yourself.

People thinking it's healthy

You look me in the eye and tell me that my mid-afternoon snack of chips followed by three homemade chocolate chip and rosemary cookies for dinner was "healthy".

Also, the constant talk about health can be very bad for people with eating disorders, both current and former (like me). So stop it.

People not understanding the term "animal products"

"Not even cheese?"

"Not even milk?"

"What about chocolate?"

"Not even fish? They don’t have feelings."

Other vegans

Sorry to be a traitor to the cause but some vegans are very annoying. If you choose to do something positive with your lifestyle, there’s a slight negation if you constantly piss off everyone around you by being overly vocal about it.

Sweet potato curry

Sweet potato curry is good. Sweet potato curry is nice. But variation is the spice of life and it's like every non-vegan that ever did and ever will host a dinner party made a blood pact to serve sweet potato curry as an appeasement to attending vegans. Enjoy eating what will be your third sweet potato curry this week while everyone else comments on how surprisingly tasty vegan options can be.

Targeted advertising

Being served advertising like this because you read a lot of vegan cooking sites.

"It's much cheaper to be vegan"

I mean... technically? But if you're using this as a line to try and persuade other people to drop the dairy (and other animal accoutrements), you're making huge assumptions about people's lifestyles and priorities. Sure, it's cheaper if you have the time to plan out meals and buy in bulk, and the wherewithal to make sure your fresh produce doesn't go off, but many people don't. If you have kids and you've just worked a double for minimum wage it's not likely you're going to pick making a dal over cheap 'n' cheerful McDonald's. If you are in that exact situation and manage to be vegan – congrats, that's amazing! But remember not everyone can. Respect people's choices for God's sake, they know their lives better than you.

Also, vegan options when you're out and about can still be extortionate.

Milk randomly being added to things that just do not need milk

Crisps – I’m looking at you.

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Your November Horoscope, Revealed

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As we move into the colder months, the planets ebb and flow through their paths, both direct and in retrograde. Venus, our planet of beauty and charm, will end her retrograde and return to her usual path on the 16th. Have you been waiting to pull the trigger on a new beauty ritual? You may learn more about an up-and-coming mask before it’s all over Instagram.

On that same day, our speedy communication planet, Mercury, enters his third retrograde of the year. When one area of your life regains speed, another must hit the brakes. Prepare yourself for intense internal change at the beginning of the month when the new moon arrives in Scorpio. Guard yourself against reacting too quickly or severely to loved ones during this time. On the 22nd, the Sun enters Sagittarius and the full moon enters Gemini the next day. Everyone will be ready to share their ideas, no matter how wild.

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Aries
March 21 to April 19

Do you have a thirst for knowledge, Aries? You could find yourself nurturing that big brain of yours on the 8th of the month, when jolly Jupiter makes his way into your ninth house of education. Sow the seeds of your ambition on the 7th, while the new moon is in pensive Scorpio. Your reality is centred around your need for constant action — but you may have to slow down when Mercury goes out of bounds from the 4th to the 20th. The communication planet rules your zones of health and work, and in addition to its time spent out of bounds, it will go retrograde on the 16th. You’d be well advised to follow this simple rule: Don’t bite off more than you can chew!

Luckily, the 16th brings some good news, too: Now that your love and money planet, Venus, is direct, you’re ready to move forward. Trust that Venus will be helping you find your way in matters of the heart. If you’re single or attached, this marks the start of a new phase of your life. Use it to consider what you value in your relationships.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Taurus
April 20 to May 20

Have you ever wondered what magical strings are responsible for tying Taureans to their creature comforts? The fastest moving planet, Mercury, rules your financial sector, so it's natural for you to have your finances and nest egg on the brain. Plus, you’re used to the path of this planet and its many retrogrades. On November 16, the messenger planet goes retrograde until December 6. Pay attention to your relationship with money during this period. Can you course-correct against your spending urges?

Mercury aside, are you ready for some better news? Your ruling planet, Venus, goes direct on the 16th in Libra! She rules your zones of work and health, helping you to better empathise with friends and colleagues. You could have a breakthrough with a difficult someone. On the 8th, lucky Jupiter moves into your eighth house of regeneration and sex. If you’re in a relationship, mark the whole month for bonding time with your partner. Single? Why not spend November getting to know yourself better? Be raw, be open, and accept love.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Gemini
May 21 to June 20

Your ruling planet, Mercury, goes out of bounds on the 4th, making his way toward his third retrograde of the year on the 16th. Mercury might be the most well known of the planetary Rx’s, but somehow it never loses its sense of mystery. This month, Merc’s retrograde won't do you any favours in articulating your concerns. Choose your words carefully, especially around your family members! On the 7th, the moon begins her new phase in Scorpio. Your financial planet will encourage you to start working on ideas that you left unattended. Donate a little time every day towards your goals, no matter how big or small. Reap your rewards on the 23rd, when the moon is full in your sign.

On the 8th, your love planet, Jupiter, moves into your seventh house of relationships for a month. Host a dinner party or gather your friends for a night in to remember. You’ll be the centre of attention, so hold court as no one else can. On the 16th, Mars enters your 10th house of career. Let’s get this bread — in style.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Cancer
June 21 to July 22

It’s time to get serious about your well-being, Cancer. Jupiter moves into your sixth house of health on the 8th, signalling a time to focus on how you can enhance your lifestyle. If you’ve recently decided to overhaul your sleep schedule, eat more veggies, or spend more time outside, your personal planet of health is here to help! Whatever your goal is, Jupiter will give you the boost you need. Prepare yourself for Mercury’s retrograde on the 16th by making time to get in touch with your spiritual side. Take a look at what’s been blocking you from yourself. Is the solution as simple as a social media detox? Do you need to spend more time alone? Let yourself be quiet and listen to your inner voice during this year’s third Mercury retrograde.

Venus ends her retrograde and goes direct on the 16th. The planet of beauty and charm rules your home and family zones. If you’ve been holding off on a home improvement project, you’ll be able to get past any roadblocks you may have come across after this day. It’s time to thrive in your space!

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Leo
July 23 to August 22

November promises a lighter vibe for you, Leo! Jupiter, the planet of plenty, moves into your fifth house of pleasure on the 8th. You’ll be able to find joy in all things that you do! Leo rules the fifth house, putting you in an optimistic mindset for the next year. All those positive vibes will gain steam when your career planet, Venus, goes direct on the 16th. If you’ve felt a little stiff at work recently, communicating ideas to your colleagues will come to you much easier now. You’re ready to take over the world again!

On the same day, your financial planet, Mercury, goes retrograde. This movement only lasts three weeks, so make the most of it by conserving your funds and saving big. On the 22nd, The Sun enters fellow fire sign Sagittarius and cosies up to Jupiter. These two bodies moving together will make you feel like a million bucks — you’ll be ready for anything that comes your way.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Virgo
August 23 to September 22

It’s time to take a little break from work, Virgo. Mercury, your ruling planet, starts off the month out of bounds on the 4th until the 20th. Get ready for a slow-down at work, since the messenger planet rules your career zone. Your laser focus on productivity means you need a few shutdowns every year. Prepare to get into maintenance mode as Mercury goes retrograde on the 16th of the month.

What will you do with all your restless energy? Spend it at home, since both Mercury and Jupiter are cohabiting in your fourth house of home and family. While you’re taking it easy with parents and elders, pick their brains and ask them about their experiences in their careers. You might be living in different times, but there is so much knowledge to gain from their insight. Even though your job might feel a little stalled, your financial planet is back on the move this month! Venus goes direct on the 16th, ready to help your finances get back to where you want them to be.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Libra
September 23 to October 22

November is extra shifty for you, Libra. Mercury, your planet of spirituality and good fortune, is out of bounds on the 4th and enters his third retrograde on the 16th. On the 6th, Uranus will move back into your seventh house of relationships. If changes are set in store, let them happen. You’ll be able to speak your mind when Jupiter enters your third house of communication on the 8th.

Your ruling planet, Venus, is ready to move forward on the 16th, helping you get back on your game. This magical makeover will have you glowing from the inside out. On the same day, Mars will move into your sixth house of work and health. If you’re single, you may find yourself attracted to someone you meet in your day-to-day life! If you move forward with them, make sure you’re ready for a change in the schedule if it doesn’t work out. If you’re attached, inflate your ego a bit — take your sexual energy and sweep your partner off their feet!

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Scorpio
October 23 to November 21

You’re all about transformation, Scorpio, but even you need a moment to enjoy still waters. On the 6th, Uranus, your planet of home and family life, scoots into your sixth house of work. He will move forward again next year into your seventh house of pleasure. Until then, focusing on solidifying your home base is priority number one.

On the 16th, your love planet, Venus, goes direct! If you’re in a relationship, prepare to reignite your spark. Plan romantic evenings at home while keeping each other warm all winter long. Single? It will be much easier for you to tap into your essence, as well as identifying who is right for you. You might find yourself looking for a partner who’s a little deeper, while Venus spends her time in your 12th house of spirituality. Bond with people who connect with your soul. On the 8th, money-maker Jupiter makes his way into your financial house.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Sagittarius
November 22 to December 21

Last month, you focused on getting in touch with your more spiritual side, Sag. Now that your October reflections are behind you, how do you want to move forward? Your ruling planet, Jupiter, is ready to inspire you as he moves into your first house of self on the 8th of the month. It’s time to get back to the very core of who you are. On the 16th, Venus got direct. Your planet of work and health is ready to help you be the best (and most prosperous) version of yourself.

On the same day, Mercury, your planet of love, goes retrograde. Don’t flip out yet — instead, accept that you may experience some hiccups in your love life, but nothing catastrophic. Express patience and compassion during this three week period. The messenger planet also rules your career, so if there are delays or flubs at the office, keep a cool head. It’s important to remember that everyone doesn’t have everything together all the time.

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Capricorn
December 22 to January 19

If relationships are on your mind, centre your thoughts on the 7th with the new moon in Scorpio. If you feel restless, make sure to communicate your needs with your partner or potential partner clearly and gently. You may feel a renewed interest in spirituality on the 8th, when Jupiter, your spiritual ruler, moves into your eighth house of death, sex, and rebirth. The sun will join Jupiter in your 12th house later this month, amplifying these feelings.

If work has been giving you grief lately, hold on a little longer! Your career planet, Venus, is retrograde until the 16th. Venus will spend her time in your 10th house of career all month, smoothing over old work issues. While Venus is moving forward, Mercury does the opposite on the same day, kicking off its third retrograde of the year. Let yourself relax and embrace self-care rituals to stay invigorated. Spend the night of the 23rd with someone who you love. The full moon in Gemini will stir up intriguing conversations!

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Aquarius
January 20 to February 18

Taking care of your body is just as important as the care that you give to your mind, Aquarius. On the 7th, consider what you can do to improve your health in small ways. Little changes can make a world of difference. On the 23rd, reflect on all the progress you’ve made since October’s full moon. On the 8th, Jupiter makes his way into your 11th house of friends, after spending a whole lot of time in your 10th house of career. Think hard about where you would rather spend your time — at this point, it should be a no-brainer!

Communication planet Mercury is also in your house of friendships, so you’ll feel prompted to catch up with all your favourite people. On the 16th, Venus, your planet of home and family life, goes direct. Get ready to cozy up for the winter. Tackle some home improvement projects and enjoy spending time with your loved ones!

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

Pisces
February 19 to March 20

Is any other sign affected by Mercury retrogrades as much as you, Pisces? This planet rules your love, home, and family life, which rocks your emotional world on a regular basis. Luckily, these retrogrades are short and wonderful times for reflection and growth. The communication planet will be doing double duty in your 10th house of career this month. If you’re single, there is a chance that you could meet someone in your field of work. Will you start seeing a different side of someone at the office? Maybe you meet a professional acquaintance that you admire?

Mercury retrograde might hide your emotions from you until you’ve got a crush you can’t shake! Playing it cool during this retrograde will be easier than usual, thanks to Jupiter moving into your 10th house of career on the 8th, followed by the Sun on the 22nd. It’s your moment!

Illustrated by Abbie Winters.

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From Art Darling To Marni Muse: Jess Maybury Is The Model To Know

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Jess Maybury was 17 when she booked her first modelling job, alongside older sister Reba Maybury (a writer, publisher and dominatrix), for the respected fashion and culture magazine, AnOther. It was an auspicious start and Jess quickly became a regular face on the arty London fashion scene, known for her statuesque figure and unique beauty. With a mix of Pakistani and Welsh heritage, Jess is tall with long, dark hair, an angular jaw and the bored but beautiful almond eyes of a Pre-Raphaelite muse.

Initially, Jess appeared on the catwalk and in photoshoots for emerging designers such as Claire Barrow and Marta Jakubowski, and then more established brands including Gareth Pugh and Acne. Autumn Winter '15 brought her first campaign, a gothic vision for Lanvin, and she recently appeared in the Autumn Winter '18 Vivienne Westwood campaign with Reba. After becoming embedded in London’s art and fashion communities, and working on her own eccentric shoots with partner Joshua Gordon (a filmmaker), Jess has become well known in the industry here.

Ashley Williams Spring Summer 19

This past fashion month, however, Jess burst onto the international fashion stage in a major way. Cast for the Spring Summer '19 Marni show in Milan, Jess was given the prestigious role of opening the show – an honour usually bestowed on a model the designer believes epitomises the mood of the collection, and the current moment in fashion. Having walked for Ashley Williams in London, Jess then finished fashion month walking for Kenzo and Sonia Rykiel in Paris.

Refinery29 caught up with Jess over email to hear about her first major fashion month, and also found out why she quit college, how she came to love her unique beauty, and how she copes with freezing cold modelling shoots...

Where are you from, and what’s your background?
I grew up in a small village called Woodstock which was quite boring and full of old people, and moved to London to do a degree in illustration at Camberwell but didn’t like it – it definitely wasn’t worth £9,000 a year. Since then, I’ve been experimenting with my own work and doing projects with my boyfriend. Working a boring job to pay rent and modelling when something comes up, which makes life far more exciting.

What’s the best thing about being a model during fashion month?
I can get time off work from my job, and love meeting interesting designers and stylists who I respect and adore, like ASAI and Fran Burns, who have really supported me.

What is the biggest misconception people have about modelling?
That it’s all glamour the whole time. A lot of my shoots have been outside in the middle of the freezing winter or swimming in icy water, but I can’t complain because they’re generally amazing experiences with people I love working with, and the benefits outweigh any bad points. I got to hold a fox called Cherry for Print magazine, which was really incredible.

Jess opening Marni Spring Summer 19

You opened the Marni show in Milan, which is a huge deal. How did that come about? When did you find out? And what did it feel like?
It was really amazing and surreal. I was asked to go to Milan for the weekend to visit them and found out I was opening the show the night before, which was so shocking. I kept thinking why would they want this big buggy woman to open their show?

How do you relax after show season?
Because I’m not a full-time model I’m not as busy as other models so I don’t feel too drained by it all, but when I am away I miss spending time with my boyfriend, so I try and squeeze in some day trips to galleries or to a farm to see some piggies with him.

How would you describe your personal style?
Well, my favourite colour is brown so any look with an array of chocolate and caramel tones is right up my alley. Me and my sister have been collecting and sharing vintage Jean Paul Gaultier for years! My style icons would range from Grace Jones to my mum and her collection of Indian and Afghani tribal jewellery.

Marni Spring Summer 19

And what about your beauty routine?
I don’t really have one, I’m quite the lazy pig. I just wash my hair every day and put it in a plait, that’s my only daily ritual. I love a body oil but usually have to steal one because they’re quite expensive.

Have you always been confident in your looks?
Oh, definitely not. I looked like a big tall worm my whole life and then cut my hair into a bowl cut (accidentally) when I was 14 so the teenage years were quite hideous, but I think kids and teenagers need to look like freaks. If you peak when you’re young then the rest of your life is downhill from there. I love being tall now and making men on the Tube feel really small, but I also love that my boyfriend is shorter than me, it’s a perfect combination.

Sonia Rykiel Spring Summer 19

There’s an increasing crossover between models and influencers. What are your feelings about being an influencer, or street style personality?
I suppose it depends on the 'influencer'. It’s only a term that’s existed in the last few years and has little meaning because none of these people do anything and aren’t actually very interesting. But I suppose models and influencers alike are both desired because of their physical appearance. I just wish the younger generation didn’t care about putting all their efforts into street style and selfies and actually had knowledge of art history, literature and good films. People just praise the rich kids of celebrities now, it’s boring.

As well as a model, you’re also a photographer. How would you describe your style and practice?
Jean-Paul Goude and Cindy Sherman have been favourites since an early age. I’m only getting to grips with what I want to do; I often feel pressure to say "I’m a photographer" but I just want to create art that’s not just for Instagram as that doesn’t hold any value to me. I want to work on meaningful projects until I’m happy to put it all out there, no matter how long it takes.

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"I Get Bullied For Being Vegan": Women On The Hate They Get For Not Eating Meat

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It's World Vegan Day, an annual celebration of the benefits of a plant-based diet for our health, animals and the planet, and in 2018 more people will be clinking a glass of (vegan) champagne than ever. One in eight Britons is now vegan or vegetarian, while more than a fifth claim to be flexitarian and only eat meat occasionally, according to new figures. Which means a third of the population have reduced their meat intake or cut it out completely. The fact that veganism is "in" right now probably has something to do with it.

But despite its popularity and a growing awareness of the benefits, veganism still incites loathing and even rage among many meat-eating people. Coincidentally, just this week the editor of Waitrose Food magazine quit his job after it emerged he'd suggested a series on "killing vegans, one by one" in response to a freelance journalist who had pitched features on plant-based recipes.

Back in January, there was the chef who was forced to resign after she threatened to spike a "pious, judgmental vegan's" meal; and who could forget the Dublin café that went viral in 2015 for barring vegans and threatening to kill them? Extreme examples of anti-veganism abound – and it's an attitude that people who avoid animal products are forced to endure daily.

As with everything else, there is undeniably a very small minority of holier-than-thou vegans, but the vast majority just want to be left alone to eat their Vego bars in peace. Ahead, six women reveal the abuse they receive just for being vegan.

Melissa, 19, Manchester

"I grew up surrounded by agricultural communities in mid Wales where veganism wasn’t the norm and I've been called 'inbred', 'stupid', 'an idiot' and 'bacon'. I've also had abuse during protests and activism. I protest outside a slaughterhouse and have had untold abuse shouted at me from passing cars. I also get trolled on social media. I've also had cigarettes thrown at me in the street. It happens at university too, as some people in my class are from a farming background – I was once called a 'vegan extremist' in class.

"I always respond with peace – veganism is a peaceful movement – and I ignore the social media trolls. In person, if the person is sensible I'll engage in conversation and am happy to discuss the ethics of veganism."

Beth, 21, Newcastle upon Tyne

"I've been vegan for nearly two years and the bullying was relentless at the beginning. I don't think people realise they're doing it – they've all seen vegan jokes on the internet and think it's funny to repeat them. People often make jokes, like 'How do you know someone's vegan? They'll tell you' but when the piss-taking is constant it can really get you down. Especially when, in my experience, most vegans won't mention it until it's relevant, namely, when food is being offered. It's usually the vegan's friends and family who will introduce them as 'the vegan'.

"We tend to be a really compassionate bunch and when we're constantly seeing death around us and then having people making fun of us, it's so tiring. When I first went vegan I used to laugh it off in the hope that they'd stop. They didn't. We can't really win – I have a sharp tongue so if someone takes a jab at me I'll say something back, but then I'm labelled as an 'angry vegan'. The worst is when people call you 'triggered', a 'snowflake', or when they say you don't care about anything else, or that you care about animals more than people. Most of us have heard it all.

"The abuse online is far worse than in person. People think they can hide behind a screen and scream about how much they hate vegans. My Twitter friends are great though and we all stick up for each other. Thankfully we can just block the trolls – my block list is huge. It's shit we have to put up with it, but animals go through much worse. I'll always fight for them even if it means people being mean to me."

Natasha*, 29, London

"As a vegan, people will constantly call you a hypocrite and say you're being difficult. They'll say things like: 'but do you know how bad soya is?', 'what's the point?', 'oh, I imagine you eat meat when you're drunk, don't you?', or, my personal favourite, 'go on, no one will know if you just eat some cheese'.

If you want to be vegan, you need to have a bit of a sense of humour or at least a thick skin.

"If you want to be vegan, you need to have a bit of a sense of humour or at least a thick skin. People do see it as open season to say things and it's just awkward for everyone if you can't try and laugh it off. I had one friend who used to mercilessly take the piss at every opportunity when I first went vegan, but she's since done a bit of research herself and now she's gone vegetarian totally of her own volition."

Janet*, 52, Kent

"I've been vegan for seven years – vegetarian since 1987 – and I still get stick for my diet every day, even from my family. People laugh in my face when I ask for the vegan menu and I'm constantly asked why I’m vegan. My worst ever experience was when an ex-partner spat kebab meat in my face. I normally try to educate people who say things, but most of the time they don’t listen. It’s like talking to a brick wall."

Amy, 21, Essex

"I’ve been vegan for two years and three months and most of the mocking I've received has been online. Random trolls always say stuff to vegans just to wind them up. They'll send GIFs of meat, call them stupid, say they’ll die from deficiencies, call us 'stupid liberal hippies' or just try to attack us as people, purely because they 'hate vegans'. Some people say really horrid things, so when I get a troll I normally just block them. I've had to block over 100 accounts of people who follow people just to abuse vegans.

"In real life I don’t normally get a lot, because I have supportive friends who aren’t really bothered by how I live as long as I’m happy and healthy. When I first went vegan, I made a point of using people’s insults in my favour, so before people made comments I’d already have said them. I'd joke about it. I’ve found being relaxed and having this approach helps me have proper conversations with people about veganism and be able to even spread the message better."

Kate, 39, Glasgow

"In the 18 months I've been vegan I've had all the typical comments that any vegan gets – 'but bacon though,' etc, etc – and am often introduced as 'the vegan' whenever I go anywhere. Luckily I've got a pretty thick skin though, and I know being vegan is the best thing for me and the environment. That's what I usually say in response. My dad particularly struggles with it but I've had a word with his wife and she knows that as long as she buys me a vat of hummus for when I visit, I can survive."

*Some names have been changed

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Designer Accused Of Hosting Satanic Orgy Returns With Unearthly Fashion Spectacle

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In September 2017, the London-based Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu was accused of hosting a satanic orgy in a church. Outraged headlines screamed from the pages of the Daily Mail and the mouth of apoplectic American alt-right presenter (and noted conspiracy theorist) Alex Jones of InfoWars. "Now they have fashion shows with people dressed up as you'd dress up for a Satanic orgy right out of Eyes Wide Shut," Jones raved. "This itself is an act of Satanism, to carry out a Satanic ritual in a church," he opined, adding, with brilliantly camp ostentation: "The only thing better is to kill a child."

Reader, I was at that show. I’m sad to inform you that there was no orgy, and happy to confirm there was no infanticide; what did take place was a really great fashion presentation. Dilara showed a collection inspired by archetypes of the physical, metaphysical and spiritual realms. Characters included the Queen, King, Pope, Virgin, Justice, Shamash (the Mesopotamian Sun God), the Prime Minister, twin agents, a witch, God, the Devil, a nun, and the Forty Elephants ("a 19th and 20th century all-female London crime syndicate who specialised in shoplifting... notable for its longevity and skill in avoiding police detection," according to Wikipedia).

Known for her rock star tailoring, historic references, mystical iconography and concern with the spiritual realm, Dilara has gathered a wide range of fans. Bella Hadid was spotted wearing her Mick Jagger jacket; Madonna opted for the Garden of Eden coat; Adwoa Aboah had a whole custom suit made; Jazelle went for a silver cut-out mini dress to cuddle Kate Moss in; Rihanna was taken with a pink corset; Xtina went for bondage-influenced stage wear; Marilyn Manson got her to make his tour merch; and these cool cats commissioned custom suits for their wedding.

London and IstanbulPhotography by Beyza Yildirim, courtesy Dilara Findikoglu

When Dilara’s most recent invite arrived on my desk, over a year after the non-satanic non-orgy, it had instructions to brandish it with an open flame to reveal details of her Spring Summer '19 presentation. Having decided not to show during London Fashion Week – to allow visitors time to take in the elaborate world she has created – Dilara opted to show on Samhain (the original Celtic festival that Christianity adopted as All Hallows' Eve, or Halloween). Held within Dennis Severs' House, a cramped townhouse museum in Spitalfields with wooden spiral staircase and rooms decorated extravagantly in 18th century style, the show was titled "May the Darkness Light the Way" and curated into seven existential, conceptual or personal 'conflicts': Sinful and Innocent; Natural and Synthetic; Modest and Provocative; Mind and Matter; London and Istanbul; Good and Evil; Future and Past.

The Virgin Bride, Good and Evil.Photography by Beyza Yildirim, courtesy Dilara Findikoglu

"It grew out of thinking about conflicts in society, concepts like being modest, and being provocative, and being labelled as those things," Dilara explains, standing at the foot of a four-poster bed, where a virgin bride lies, watched over by an angel and a devil, in the topmost room of Dennis Severs' House. "Or [the concepts of] sinful and innocent – that connects to the idea of child marriages and girls being pushed to get married when they are children in the Middle East," Dilara says. She has noted the fluidity of these moral concepts before, telling LOVE magazine: "Whilst in some societies women are judged if they have sex before marriage, it’s permissible for girls of a young age to be forced to become child brides."

Trapped in childhood. Sinful and Innocent.Photography by Beyza Yildirim, courtesy Dilara Findikoglu

To help address this abusive practice, Dilara has been working on an exclusive T-shirt to benefit the World Human Relief Project focused on girls’ education and preventing child marriage in Turkey, her parents’ homeland. The charity built a school in the most populous region of Turkey, which has the lowest rate of education for girls, marginalised communities, and high rates of child marriage and female deaths.

Future and Past.Photography by Beyza Yildirim, courtesy Dilara Findikoglu
Mind and Matter.Photography by Beyza Yildirim, courtesy Dilara Findikoglu

Moving into the next room, Dilara explains that the model standing among plants growing inexplicably from the floor represents the future, situated within a room that looks to the past. "It’s my own conflict, [but it’s] everyone’s conflict. I’m quite nostalgic, but I’m also curious about the future and how I can develop my own work with more futuristic and modern things," Dilara explains. The model is wearing a voluminous baby blue bubble dress with ruched sleeves. So is the future kind of big, and blousy? I ask. "I want the future to be maximalist!" Dilara says. "If you look at historical references and photoshoots from the '20s and '60s, [where] they imagine the 2000s, it looks incredible, futuristic, and big! But we just wear jeans and T-shirts now, which is quite upsetting. My future is [maximalist]!"

Natural and Synthetic.Photography by Beyza Yildirim, courtesy Dilara Findikoglu

In other rooms (dressed with moss and twigs, piles of fresh fruit, trays of Turkish delight, and a ouija board by set designer Jabez Bartlett), there are characters attempting to imitate nature and become one with the environment; four women involved in a seance to address their demons, watched over by a ghost; and a dancer trying to reconcile the dual parts of herself under British and Turkish flags, representing Dilara herself. The full looks, when staged among mystical artefacts and in such a historic setting, can imply that the clothes are costume-y, but, as Dilara’s many customers know, when you break the collection up into separates, there is a wealth of subversive tailoring, decadent party wear, and, yes, even wedding attire. If your budget doesn’t stretch to this demi-couture, look out for the charity T-shirts (arriving on Dilara’s e-store in the next week or so) to look good and do good, too.

Modest and Provocative.Photography by Beyza Yildirim, courtesy Dilara Findikoglu

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Everything We Know About The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show So Far

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After productions in Shanghai, Paris, and London, the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show is returning to New York for its annual holiday spectacle. And, as usual, you can bet that an estimated 190 countries will be watching when the show airs on December 2nd (1opm/EST).

Ever year, a swarm of Angels walks the coveted Victoria's Secret runway in the retailer's latest fashions (add in some couture-style pieces for added production value that won't be sold en masse), and we gather around our televisions to see who's earned their wings, and which music mega-star will croon alongside them. (Past performers have included Katy Perry, Taylor Swift, Maroon 5 and Justin Bieber.) The event, now 23 years strong, has become something of a highlight to the holiday season, and this year will not disappoint.

Via press release, the lingerie monolith revealed the names of which Angels would be returning to the catwalk and the star-studded lineup of performers they'll be strutting to. For the Angels, Adriana Lima, Behati Prinsloo (who is back following a three-year hiatus), Candice Swanepoel, Kendall Jenner, Elsa Hosk, Jasmine Tookes, Josephine Skriver, Lais Ribeiro, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Martha Hunt, Romee Strijd, Sara Sampaio, Stella Maxwell, and Taylor Hill will walk this year's stage, among a slew of newbies and up-and-comers.

And the performers are even bigger. Chart toppers like Shawn Mendes, Rita Ora, Bebe Rexha, The Chainsmokers, Halsey, Kelsea Ballerini, and English rock band The Struts will provide the soundtrack to this year's show. "Only one show brings together the biggest names in music and the top models around the globe for an exciting hour of entertainment and style," ABC's senior vice president of alternative series, late night, and specials Rob Mills said. "We couldn’t be happier to work with this iconic brand and bring The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show to ABC."

The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show is indeed the most televised fashion event of the year, so naturally, we'll be tuning in. In addition to the aforementioned talent, designer Mary Katrantzou lent her talent to a section of the show, so be on the lookout for those, too. See you in December ( *winks, turns*).

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Timothée Chalamet & Harry Styles Discuss The Women In Their Lives In New Interview

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And on November 1, God gave us Timothée Chalamet and Harry Styles in conversation.

Four of the sharpest cheekbones in Hollywood spoke on the phone to discuss social media, masculinity, and that peach scene in Call Me By Your Name for i-D Magazine, and the resulting article (along with the grimiest — in the best way — photos of Chalamet) confirms that Styles and Chalamet are two of the purest boys in the biz right now.

Fans have been waiting for Chalamet and Styles to meet for a very long time, and their long-distance interaction (if they did a photoshoot together, the internet would surely combust) did not disappoint. Styles and Chalamet are a part of a new front of young, sensitive, and sensible actors, who don't really resemble the rough-and-tumble all-American movie stars of years past. They know it. They love it. And they discussed it.

First, Styles asks Chalamet about how the concept of masculinity has changed for him over the years, and Chalamet admitted he was waiting to ask the singer the same question. "I was going to ask you a version of that question but I worried it would be giving myself too much credit to think I could make a change like that," he says. "But, if you are giving me that license then I would say absolutely. It’s one of the reasons I’m so happy to get on the phone with you because growing up we did have some people to look up to, but it wasn’t as obvious...I would be so thrilled to know that the roles I’m playing are instigating change in some way."

He goes on, struggling to define what exactly it is about him, and Styles, and even Chalamet-counterpart Lucas Hedges, that makes them stand-out. "How do I phrase this? I think there’s something to be written about this by someone way smarter than I am... I want to say you can be whatever you want to be. There isn’t a specific notion, or jean size, or muscle shirt, or affectation, or eyebrow raise, or dissolution, or drug use that you have to take part in to be masculine. It’s exciting. It’s a brave new world."

Styles agrees, adding that he believes his relationship with his mother and sister directly impacted his ability to be vulnerable, and not shy away from the more feminine constructs in life (this is an idea Jonah Hill also touched on in an interview with Refinery29 when talking about his new movie, which coincidentally stars Hedges). "You have this idea of what being masculine is and as you grow up and experience more of the world, you become more comfortable with who you are," he replied. "Today it’s easier to embrace masculinity in so many different things. I definitely find — through music, writing, talking with friends and being open — that some of the times when I feel most confident is when I’m allowing myself to be vulnerable. It’s something that I definitely try and do."

And if you're not already standing up on your desk cheering on our two beautiful, good boys, Chalamet is here to knock it out of the park. "It’s almost a high to be vulnerable," he says. "I really get that. I think it can be achieved in art, but also in intimacy. It’s the craziest feeling to achieve that vulnerability. If us having this conversation, in any infinitesimal way, can help anyone, a guy, a girl, realise that being vulnerable is not a weakness, not a social barrier. It doesn’t mean you’re crazy or hyper emotional, you’re just human, which I think is something your music gets at and hopefully my movies do too. Humans are complex; we need to feel a lot of things. We are not homogeneous."

Yeah, he said "infinitesimal." Such good boys!

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30 Perfect Looks To Copy This November

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If you're experiencing the type of temperatures we've had over the past week or so in London, then you've likely had to break out those winter coats and sweaters. It's gotten a little chilly, hasn't it? And while we're thankful for the switch in seasons (our summer dresses got a little too much wear), there's just one problem: we kind of skipped autumn.

Since we have a feeling November might be a bit of a gamble — it's supposed to be 70 degrees tomorrow, but could easily snow in three weeks — we're giving you a variety of ways to wear your cold-weather staples. Your favourite thigh high boots? Wear them with a mini skirt to replace pants or tights. That denim jacket you wore all summer? Pile your sweaters underneath. We’re welcoming November with open arms. It's fluffy jackets and patent trench coats galore from here on out.

With unpredictable temperatures, your wardrobe is going to have to pull double-duty. Let these 30 outfits ahead help your closet hit its full potential.

Burnt orange and moody blue is our November 2018 colour anthem.

One extra puffy sleeve to layer your extra puffy sweaters.

We love a shiny patent trench.

Don't put away your mini skirts just yet; a thigh high boot can replace your pants and keep your knees toasty. Just ask our Senior Entertainment Writer Sesali Cohen.

The cutest lil' mini crossbody for the cutest lil' outfit.

Our aforementioned November palette, making an appearance yet again.

Wishing all of our faux fur trims were neon pink!

Sometimes simple is best - let a good bright coat do the talking.

For those days when all you want to do is open the windows, smell the autumn air, and take a long nap.

Head-to-toe teal, is this the next big colour?

It's vest season so break them out and if you need some more convincing, see how we styled them for a week.

Jumpsuits for November: they're great to throw on and focus more on accessorising.

Subtle twinning is winning.

Windbreaker + printed trench = how to jacket layer without feeling clunky.

For a gloomy day, replace your black boots for pink ones! (Seen here on our outgoing Senior Fashion Market Editor Alyssa Coscarelli.)

And for sunny days, take it easy with a khaki trench coat.

Black leggings are still a thing! And we're here for it, as long as we can get that jacket to wear them with.

Say howdy to your white cowboy boots. They're going to be your trusty companion as the temps drop. Just be sure to check the weather for any snowstorms before you head out for the day.

It's almost as if you never even left your bed this AM. Thank you blanket scarves for your portable comfort.

Our fashion news writer, Channing Hargrove, knows how to wear a good leather pant.

Winter all-white look on point.

Sequin skirts aren't just for holiday dressing. Wear them for just a regular day at the office.

Find yourself a quilted set; it'll be your saviour for those days when you don't want to wear anything.

Keep everything warm but then let your toes breathe just a little bit.

Proof that blazers and trousers don't have to be bought together as a set.

We love a structural black coat, and this one checks all of the boxes.

It's not just all beanies from here! Switch it up with a super cute beret.

Swap out your favourite denim mini for a nice denim midi.

One of our favourite styling tricks for winter is sock and boot layering. You'll be surprised to find how many different combos there are.

Clothing pieces to reconsider: extra long cardigans.

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Harvey Weinstein Accused Of Sexual Misconduct With 16-Year-Old

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Fallen Hollywood titan Harvey Weinstein has made headlines yet again for another sexual misconduct accusation.

According to a report from People, a new lawsuit accuses the film producer of sexually harassing a Polish model and aspiring actress — referred to as Jane Doe in the lawsuit — over a 10-year period, beginning when she was just 16.

This claim is part of a class action lawsuit against Weinstein, filed by multiple women who accuse the Shakespeare In Love producer of engaging in various degrees of sexual misconduct.

Per the new lawsuit filing, according to CBC, Weinstein allegedly lured the actress to her apartment days after meeting her under the guise of a business lunch. He then allegedly instructed her to take off her clothes.

"Terrified and struggling to hold back tears, Jane Doe said she would not and resisted his demands," the filing states, per CBC. "Jane Doe was a virgin, and had no intention or understanding when she agreed to a business lunch that she would be put in this alarming position."

Weinstein allegedly continued to "emotionally abuse" and "sexually harass" the unnamed accuser for the next decade.

Per People, court documents state that Weinstein promised the accuser work in the entertainment industry but never followed through "because she would not give in to his sexual demands."

The court documents also claim that Weinstein threatened the accuser to engage in sexual acts and forced the woman to touch his genitals. This alleged misconduct reportedly continued until the woman severed all contact with Weinstein in 2011.

Weinstein vehemently denies previous rape allegations. Weinstein's lawyer denied this particular claim to People, stating:

"This claim is preposterous and eventually, just as others have been exposed to be liars, this uncorroborated allegation that is almost 20 years old will be shown to be patently false."

This allegation is just one in a slew to come out against Weinstein. In October of 2017, a New York Times piece on the former co-chair of Miramax detailed multiple accusations against Weinstein, including from Hollywood stars like Rose McGowan, who claims Weinstein raped her. A New Yorker piece by Ronan Farrow on Weinstein's alleged survivors followed shortly after.

In May, Weinstein was indicted by a grand jury on two charges of rape as well as a criminal sexual act in the first degree. He pled not guilty and is currently out on bail.

Refinery29 has reached out to Weinstein's lawyer for comment.

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Olivier Rousteing Is Bringing Couture Back To Balmain

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Balmain's creative director Olivier Rousteing has been incredibly transparent about wanting to bring fashion to the masses. In fact, he's structuring his entire business around it. Rousteing — one of three Black men to ever helm a major fashion house — has made good on his promise of promoting inclusivity by helping Black actresses challenge racism at the Cannes Film Festival earlier this year and designing Beyoncé’s iconic Coachella costumes. In September, Rousteing introduced a next level army — using virtual reality to democratise the runway in a groundbreaking partnership with [Facebook] Oculus to allow a new audience from around the world join in for an exclusive 360 view of the collection. And now that the world is watching, Rousteing is taking the French fashion house back to its roots.

On Wednesday, he announced at WWD's Retail & Apparel CEO Summit that he wanted to "bring back the Parisian DNA" to his brand. For the first time in 16 years, Balmain will make couture again, and it could be on the fashion calendar as soon as next January. We knew something was up earlier this year, when Rousteing decided it was time to outfit his #BalmainArmy in more than bandage dresses and sharply-tailored blazers. He launched a 10-piece collection of evening wear dubbed 44 Francois Premier (the location of Balmain's atelier), calling it a "palette cleanser."

As Rousteing put it, the move is "a chance to return to the beginnings of this house, with the single driving goal being that of creating unique and exquisite pieces, far removed from editorial and runway pressures." Last January, the designer told Vogue that, to prepare, he dug through the house's archives with the aim of paying tribute to both Pierre Balmain himself and as well as the rock & roll aesthetic of Christoph Decarnin, Rousteing's predecessor.

We're excited to see what Couture Fashion Week brings come January.

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What Ivanka Did This Week: Birthday Parties, Lawsuits & Campaigning In Nevada

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Ivanka's schedule has not been made public, so each week, we will do our best to cover the public events and forums she attends, the meetings she has with lawmakers and government officials, and her social media presence.

Saturday, October 27

After a gunman opened fire inside the Tree of Life Synagogue in Pittsburgh, killing 11 people, Ivanka took to Twitter to send a message of solidarity. "America is stronger than the acts of a depraved bigot and anti-semite. All good Americans stand with the Jewish people to oppose acts of terror & share the horror, disgust & outrage over the massacre in Pittsburgh," she wrote. "We must unite against hatred & evil. God bless those affected."

Sunday, October 28

Ivanka shared a picture of the White House's American flag flown at half-staff to honour the victims of the synagogue shooting, following a proclamation from her father President Donald Trump.

Monday, October 29

Four investors filed a lawsuit against the Trump Organization, alleging the Trumps violated federal anti-racketeering law.

The first daughter retweeted a post from the official White House account including a story about her visit to Kentucky last week.

She also touted the final report of the Canada-United States Council for Advancement of Women Entrepreneurs and Business Leaders, an initiative she championed in February 2017, before officially joining the White House as a senior adviser to the president.

Page Six reported Ivanka and her husband Jared Kushner attended the 50th birthday party of Hugh Jackman. The actor said: "I’ve been friends with them for 15 years so I am sure they were happy not to talk politics for a night."

Tuesday, October 30

The first daughter celebrated her 37th birthday.

Ivanka and her husband also traveled with President Trump, first lady Melania Trump, and Secretary of the Treasury Steven Mnuchin to Pittsburgh, despite opposition from city officials and members of the Jewish community. There, they paid respect to the victims of Saturday's shooting and met with first responders.

The New York Times reports that Kushner, the grandson of Holocaust survivors, and Ivanka, who converted to Judaism before marrying, worked behind the scenes to shape the president's response to the tragedy. Last year, his failure to condemn white nationalists and anti-Semitism after the violence in Charlottesville, VA was heavily criticised.

Wednesday, October 31

Ivanka helped host an event at the White House related to the administration's Pledge to America’s Workers campaign.

Thursday, November 1

Ivanka tweeted about the economy. She also traveled to Reno, NV to campaign for Sen. Dean Heller, who is locked in one of the most competitive races this midterm election. If Rep. Jacky Rosen defeats Heller, it would help Democrats get at chance at regaining control of the Senate.

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Inside The Love Story That Defined Freddie Mercury's Life

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Mary Austin was 19 years old when a 24-year-old Freddie Mercury walked into Biba, the posh London department store where she was working. He swerved the course of her life towards one marked by great love, stadium tours, devastating loss, and inheriting a 28-room London mansion (but that's for later). At the time, Mercury was a year away from founding Queen, one of the 20th century's biggest rock bands. Five months after meeting, Austin and Mercury moved into together; they remained a couple for six years, but friends for life.

The movie Bohemian Rhapsody, out November 2, memorialises the relationship between Mercury (Rami Malek) and Austin (Lucy Boynton), which continued to evolve even after Mercury came out as bisexual and their romantic connection ceased. Austin was there when he was dying of AIDS. She was there for it all. "It's fair to say she was the love of his life," Mick Rock, one of the couple's friends, said in the documentary Freddie Mercury: The Untold Story.

Now, Austin lives a private life in Garden Lodge, the mansion she inherited from Mercury when he died at the age of 45 in 1991. Though Austin once regularly greeted mourners and interacted with fans, she's since stopped. In 2017, Austin angered Mercury's fans when she repainted the shrine to Mercury had gradually built up on the gated walls outside the Kensington mansion. But the home itself is a shrine to Mercury. Austin hasn't changed the decor of Mercury's dream home much at all. Because for Austin, Mercury's death was tremendous. "I lost somebody who I thought was my eternal love. When he died I felt we'd had a marriage. We'd lived our vows. We'd done it for better for worse, for richer for poorer, in sickness and in health. You could never have let go of Freddie unless he died — and even then it was difficult," she told OK.

Until she met Mercury in 1969, Austin's life hadn't been positioned towards the extraordinary. Her father was a wallpaper trimmer. Her mother worked as a maid. Both of her parents were deaf. Though Austin's job in PR at Biba allowed her to brush shoulders with the elite, like Paul McCartney and Mick Jagger, she actually met Mercury through Queen's future lead guitarist Brian May, whom Austin briefly dated. After visiting the store a few times, Mercury asked Austin out on his 24th birthday. She said no. He persisted. So, they went out the next night instead.

Within the year, while Mercury and Austin were living in a tiny London flat, Mercury's newly formed band, Queen, would begin to see success. Austin recognised Mercury's star power during a small showcase at his old college. She also recognised that she was coming along for the ride. "That night, I realised that I had to go along with this and be part of it. As everything took off I was watching him flower. It was wonderful to observe," Austin told OK.

To their friends, Austin and Mercury seemed like the epitome of young love and happiness. "They were very sweet. They were like a married couple. This was obviously true love,” Queen's Brian May said in Freddie Mercury: The Untold Story.

Mercury proposed to Austin in 1973. “He gave me a big box on Christmas Day. Inside was another box, then another and so it went on. It was like one of his playful games,” she recalled to Daily Mail in 2013. “Eventually, I found a lovely jade ring inside the last small box.I was shocked. It just so wasn’t what I was expecting. I just whispered, ‘Yes. I will.’” The scene is recreated in the film Bohemian Rhapsody.

Though Mercury referred to their relationship as a marriage, the two never formally got married. Their relationship changed as Queen experienced more fame, and Mercury began to sleep with men. Austin suspected Mercury was "not one with himself." Eventually, Mercury came out as bisexual, as Austin had suspected. "It was a relief really, to actually hear it from him. To know that I had guessed more less right," she said in Freddie Mercury: The Untold Story. "I was supportive of him becoming gay because it was part of himself. It was nice to see Freddie at one with himself. It was more than nice. It was wonderful."

Their physical relationship ended, but their connection only grew. Mercury bought her a flat near his apartment, and employed her as his personal assistant. Their history with one another clouded all other romantic partnerships. In a 1985 interview, Mercury said, "All my lovers asked me why they couldn't replace Mary, but it's simply impossible. I couldn't fall in love with a man the same way I did with Mary."

Lucy Boynton, who plays Mary Austin in Bohemian RhapsodyPhoto: Mike Marsland/WireImage.

That said, they both did have other long-lasting relationships. After their split, Mercury — born Farrokh Bulsara to conservative Parsi parents — remained single for some time. He dated other women (like actress Barbara Valentin) publicly, and men privately. Mercury was with Jim Hutton (played by Aaron McCusker in Bohemian Rhapsody) for seven years, until the time of his death. Hutton was a hair dresser and kept his job even after moving into Mercury's mansion. Hutton died in 2010 of cancer.

Austin, meanwhile, was married twice. First, to painter Piers Cameron, with whom she had two sons. Then, to businessman Nick Holford, whom she divorced after five years.

When Mercury was diagnosed with AIDS, Austin was one of the people who took care of him, along with Hutton. “I lost my family, really, when Freddie died,” Austin told The Daily Mail. “He was everything to me, apart from my sons. He was like no one I had met before.” Upon his death in 1991, Mercury left her and her sons his 28-room house and half his $75 million fortune, inciting jealousy among his former bandmates. Mercury also gave Austin the responsibility of burying his ashes in a secret location. “He didn’t want anyone trying to dig him up as has happened to some famous people. Fans can be deeply obsessive. He wanted it to remain a secret and it will remain so," Austin told The Daily Mail.

Catch the fictionalised depiction of their simply unclassifiable relationship in Bohemian Rhapsody, out now.

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"Time Is Up!" Google's New York Workers Discuss Their Worldwide Walkout

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A few minutes before 11:10 a.m. EST on the morning of 1st November, the warm autumn sun beat down on the facade of Google’s New York City headquarters. A silent sea of reporters surrounded the gold entrance, watching as the first Google employees began to trickle through the front doors, walking out in solidarity with thousands of colleagues from Google offices around the world.

One woman, who works in Google’s engineering department, marched down West 15th Street carrying a large white sign that read “Happy to quit for $90,000,000 — no sexual harassment required.” When asked her reasons for walking out of work today, she requested to remain anonymous, but did not mince her words: “I want transparency in sexual harassment cases and how they’re handled,” she said. “They’re slashing a lot of perks and benefits for employees and then we find out that they’re paying a $90-million payout to somebody who was known to be a sexual harasser. It strikes me as unfair.”

The Google walkout comes on the heels of a New York Times article that exposed the tech behemoth’s history of discrimination, sexual harassment, and support of abuse and abusers at the company. One of the most shocking anecdotes in the story was of Andy Rubin, the creator of Android, who reportedly received a $90-million exit package despite a history of sexual misconduct.

While the exposé destabilised many perceptions of Google’s culture, the aftermath tells, perhaps, the more crucial story. A group of seven core organisers — who decided they’d had enough of this toxic culture — took matters into their own hands and organised a walkout. They are asking Google executives to respond to five specific demands: An end to forced arbitration in harassment and discrimination cases; a commitment to end pay and opportunity inequity; a public sexual harassment transparency report; a clear and inclusive process for reporting sexual misconduct safely and anonymously; and to promote the chief diversity officer to answer directly to the CEO and make recommendations directly to the board of directors. In addition, they want an employee representative appointed to the board.

These latest incidents at Google are not isolated. In fact, the tech giant has a long history of problematic incidents pegged to sexism and inequity. The company has previously come under fire for pay inequity, accused of systematically underpaying women workers, and even facing discrimination charges for unequal pay. In August 2017, Google engineer James Damore published a viral memo filled with sexist rhetoric and complaints about Google's diversity policies, claiming the company suffered because it's an ideological echo chamber. And in the summer of 2015, Erica Baker, who then worked as a Google engineer, made headlines after she shared she organised an internal spreadsheet documenting employee salaries to highlight the company's pay gap.

As of yesterday, roughly 1,500 individuals had planned to walk out of company offices around the globe, according to the New York Times. But, judging by New York City’s turnout, this was likely an underestimate. By 11:15 a.m., a steady stream of Googlers carrying signs and donning branded Google apparel began pushing down Eighth Avenue. The vast majority of the men and women remained tight-lipped, declining to comment on their motivations for participating. As they rounded the corner onto West 15th Street, the throng advanced toward Hudson River Park's 14th Street Park where a massive crowd convened. The park was quickly at full capacity and attendants diverted the protestors into an overflow area adjacent to the park.

Inside the park’s gates, a throbbing mass of Google employees gathered around a small group of women organisers. They stood on chairs and shared their views through a loudspeaker. Among them was Meredith Whittaker, one of the walkout’s core organisers.

“I am here because what you read in the New York Times are a small sampling of the thousands of stories we all have, the thousands of stories we carry for each other, the thousands of instances of abuse of power, discrimination, harassment, and a pattern of unethical and thoughtless decision-making that has marked this company for the last year and that has marked our culture and scarred so many of us,” Whittaker said to the crowd. “This is it. Time is up. We’re just getting started, and we want to bring all of you along with us.”

As the speeches concluded, the crowd erupted into a chant — “Time is up, time is up, time is up!” — before beginning to disperse. And, indeed, the words “time is up,” are very much in line with the crux of the countless movements and protests that have taken place in the last twelve months. One year after the #MeToo movement first destabilised U.S. and global status quo around sexual misconduct in the workplace and in society at large, Google is now experiencing perhaps its largest scandal to date. The question is: How will this tech company respond to their employees’ concerns and will there be any real change?

Google declined to comment on the walkout, saying "it’s a grassroots movement,” and at time of writing, Refinery29 had not yet received comment from organisers. But, inside Hudson River Park, Demma Rodriguez, head of equity engineering, had no shortage of words to share. Rodriguez said today’s numbers suggested that people care and want to usher in progress. But it’s not enough to participate in a single act of solidarity and protest, Rodriguez made it clear that what she hopes for is long-lasting, structural change.

“Everyone at Google should be able to stay safe,” Rodriguez said. “I said in my remarks, and I meant it: Every single person who shows up to work at Google is an equal member of our community and deserves to be respected, protected, and safe at work.”

Rodriguez went on to speak of complacency, specifically that the power of a few executives should never eclipse the safety of all. She added that she hopes the public knows that there are many members of the Google community working hard to fix, bring attention to, and prevent these abuses of power from reoccurring.

“We have very clear values about respect. It’s absolutely critical that the world understands that we take those values seriously,” Rodriguez said. “We want to make sure and make clear that our communities within Google want this to change, expect it to change, and in many ways demand it to change.”

As she spoke candidly about Google’s problems, colleagues began to gather around Rodriguez, nodding along with her words. Though she was the one to speak these words, it was evident that she spoke not just for herself, but also for the many who chose to — or felt they had to — stay silent: “We’re going to have to get it right,” Rodriguez said. “Because that is what the world expects of us. And most importantly, that is what we each should expect of ourselves.”

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This Wildlife Scene Could Win Carey Mulligan An Oscar

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Whenever awards season rolls around, I start playing a little game while watching movies featuring truly great performances: Which scene will yield the clip that is inevitably played before that actor's name is read out at the Oscars?

When it comes to Carey Mulligan 's stunning turn in Wildlife, the answer is clear.

Based on a novel by Robert Ford, the film tracks the demise of an all-American family unit in early 1960s Montana. When Jerry Brinson (Jake Gyllenhaal) decides to find himself as an ersatz firefighter, volunteering to help stave off the wildfires raging in the mountains, Jeanette (Mulligan), his long-suffering wife, starts questioning her own life decisions. In plain view of her 14-year-old son, she launches into an affair with a local businessman, Warren Miller (Bill Camp), a move that's part vindictive, part desperate attempt at self-preservation.

The exclusive clip below catches Jeanette in a nostalgic mood. She's wearing clothes from her youth as a "shoot beauty," when she used to stand behind the bull shoots at rodeos, confident in her beauty and men's admiration. As Joe sets up the soup cans he's just bought to make dinner, Jeanette prowls around the kitchen, preening and posing for her son's benefit, desperately clinging to whatever sense of self she still has. It's a tragic reminder that not so very long ago, a woman's entire identity was dependent on male desire or her marital status. With Jerry gone, she's no longer a wife, so she must be a mistress. It's only starting to occur to her that she could be something else — something for herself alone.

Mulligan is phenomenal in this movie, but in this scene in particular, she infuses a woman who could flatly be deemed unsympathetic (and in fact was called "reprehensible" by an audience member during a post-screening Q&A) with pathos, emotion, and an aura of nihilistic despair. It's hard not to sympathise with her, even as she's vastly oversharing with her son, who watches, wide-eyed and bewildered.

See for yourself below:

Carey Mulligan Stuns In This Exclusive Wildlife Clip

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