How do you create a truly inclusive clothing brand? New label Collusion, which launches today, asked itself just that when it first set out. By inviting six creatives on board to imagine, consult and shape the offering, it may well have hit the nail on the head.
Taking into consideration the results of extensive research into the non-negotiable values of Gen Z, the brand's price point starts at £5, the pieces are intended for all genders, sizes are available up to a 6XL, and the collection is animal-free. Each season, a new lineup of diverse creatives will collaborate to create a collection that not only speaks to, but is for, everyone.
The brand's founding collaborators are Rene Matić, Jebi Ndimuntoh Labembika, Chidera Eggerue, Clarissa Henry, Grace Mandeville and Spencer Elmer, who were all involved in every aspect of building Collusion, from "the cut of a jacket, via the brand’s commitment to representation and inclusivity, to the way that it is marketed, photographed, styled and sold."
The collection is available exclusively at ASOS and Collusion's first drop of 200 pieces sees "colour blocking, clashing checks, statement prints, and co-ords," with many of its codes taken from Korean streetwear looks.
Ahead of the launch, we got to know five of the Collusion creatives. Click through to find out why gender-fluid fashion is vital, what it was like collaborating, and their favourite pieces.
Chidera Eggerue
Chidera, 23, a.k.a. The Slumflower, is an award-winning blogger and author. Her book, What A Time To Be Alone, and TED talks cover feminist issues, from body positivity – including her viral movement #SaggyBoobsMatter – to race and gender.
What made you want to work on Collusion?
I felt it was an opportunity to put my values where my actions are. A lot of brands tend to implement heavy values much later down the line, but this was a chance for me to contribute to the creation of a brand with unwavering values from the start.
What was the experience like?
At times, it was incredibly challenging – especially during fragile discussions we would have about race and gender politics. The difficulty arose when we had to keep in mind that all brands still participate in capitalism, and that isn’t something we need to shy away from, but rather confront with an eagerness to uplift and prioritise the most marginalised.
What did you rely on during the process?
I definitely relied a lot on my colleague Rene – another collaborator who I share so many aspects of my identity with, mainly blackness. We would literally take turns to have difficult debates because it’s often exhausting to have to repeat an experience that the world doesn’t listen to. She’s truly a beam of light.
Why is gender-fluid fashion important?
The world dictates how people should express themselves. This limitation often weighs heavier on non-binary people who aren’t attached to rigid societal norms. Collusion is taking a needed step forward in offering a solution to this.
Grace Mandeville
Grace, 23, is a body positivity activist and an actress. She speaks on matters that are still left out of the media's conversation via her YouTube channel, and is passionate about representation and inclusivity in the fashion industry.
What made you want to work on Collusion?
I’m very passionate on social media about the changes that need to happen in the fashion, advertising and media industries, especially regarding the representation of disability. I’m also often the first person to point something out when I think it’s being done incorrectly. Collusion gave me an opportunity to have a voice and be involved in solving the problems the rest of the world have created – how could I turn that down?
How would you sum up the collection?
Refreshing, and I’m not just referring to the clothing here. I’m talking about the attitude of Collusion, the conversations the brand is willing to have and its intentions.
What was something you relied on during the process?
A good night's sleep afterwards. Honestly, after the conversations we had, sleep was needed. The beauty about the group of us is that we are all so different and so, naturally, we had different views, different knowledge and different stories to share. It’s safe to say I learned a lot from everyone and I’m pretty sure everyone else has too – it’s very rare for a brand to encourage the discussion of topics such as race and prejudice, and to genuinely want to listen and learn too.
Which piece is your favourite and how would you style it?
I’m a lover of tailored clothing, shirts and high-waisted bottoms. I think it’s safe to say they have me covered.
Rene Matić
Rene, 21, a visual artist and activist, explores the intersections of her identity with the aim to educate, mobilise and empower. By critiquing, exposing, combating and questioning power structures within the art world, she does so of society more widely. Her artwork centres around the emotional labour that goes into activism and existing as a queer person of colour.
What made you want to work on Collusion?
I admired the team’s commitment to giving young people their own platform to tell their own stories. I never understood why privileged people with power feel it appropriate to speak on the experiences of people in the margins. For example: out of the first round of collaborators there were no trans or non-binary people hired and so there is no way that we can accurately articulate what those people would need and want from Collusion. Collusion’s model means that the collaborators change each year, which means they can learn and grow. Brands shouldn't identify as 'inclusive' because it suggests that they have arrived at a destination and that their journey is complete. For Collusion to represent ALL of Generation Z, the journey has barely begun. But it is the commitment that is important.
How would you sum up the collection?
Eclectic...versatile...peng.
What was something you relied on during the process?
I relied on my determination and my worth. The emotional labour that we as collaborators put in was a lot in terms of conversation, educating and listening. It was difficult but worth it, I hope. Chidera was a huge support throughout the whole process and we have found a beautiful and much-needed friendship. I am so grateful for her presence in my life and I am honoured for mine in hers.
Why is gender-fluid fashion important to you?
I think it's important (and deserved) that we see ourselves accurately and positively represented and to see clothes, products and ad campaigns that don't make us feel excluded or isolated.
What sets Collusion apart from other brands and collections?
It feels hopeful to form something for the coming of age because when I was growing up there wasn't something that reflected who I was or who I wanted to be. We need mirrors in order to see ourselves, which is why Collusion has a big but necessary job on its hands to ensure that everyone's voices are afforded space and agency. To me, Collusion is hope that brands will take it seriously when it comes to the violence of tokenism, exploitation and appropriation, and instead of speaking over and for people, they will hand over the mic.
Jebi Ndimuntoh Labembika
Jebi, 19, is a Central Saint Martins student, blogger, stylist and photographer. His upbringing in Cameroon is a touchstone for his stylistic choices and he is passionate about highlighting the conversation on African diaspora in the wider media, through style.
What made you want to work on Collusion?
For me it was the idea that I get to take part of something that will change the narrative on how my generation is being portrayed in the world of fashion, and making sure that our voices are finally being heard.
How would you sum up the collection?
Inclusive, exciting, affordable.
What was it like to consult on the brand?
We had to have those very important and serious conversations that could sometimes get intense but I think that’s what makes this brand different from the others because instead of pretending to know what is happening, it actually lets us share our different opinions and ideas about very sensitive topics.
What was something you relied on during the process? It can be anything from having an album on repeat to food or a piece of advice...
For me it would have to be one of our house rules, which was: "This is a safe space." This basically meant that we had to respect one another’s opinion and very respectfully disagree without making anyone feel uncomfortable. Oh and I also had SZA's Ctrl album on repeat.
Why is gender-fluid fashion important to you?
To me, gender-fluid fashion is being in control of your gender, not letting brands focus you into one type of box. It's letting people wear whatever they want.
Which piece is your favourite and how would you style it?
Everything tailored and I will mostly belt it at the waist.
Clarissa Henry
Clarissa's creative scope covers styling, design and filmmaking. She founded GDS (GIRLS DO SUCCEED), a luxe-sports brand, and she founded her blog Vintagedollrisa aged 17 as an exploration of style and identity.
What made you want to work on Collusion?
Being able to be a part of something that’s making history and putting my stamp on something that I can see grow. It means having the power to represent my generation properly, the right way, and it also means everything to me that I get to see my ideas come to life through fashion and clothing.
What was it like to consult on the brand?
It was rewarding because as much as I was consulting I was learning as well. From representation, branding, design, tone of voice and marketing. The things I learned will stay with me forever.
What was something you relied on during the process?
Just the ability to express myself in a safe space. Knowing that my opinion mattered and I wasn't being judged. The sense of teamwork and a tight-knit team.
Which piece is your favourite and how would you style it?
It’s hard to say, but I absolutely love all the puffer coats and bombers.
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